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MELANIE SHARPE sampled Zanzibar’s
Sauti za Busara music festival
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Amani Drummers of Burundi (Javed
Jafferji) |
On
a scorching hot Zanzibar afternoon, drummers and trumpet players
flood into Stone Town’s Forodhani Gardens.
There are acrobats flipping upside down, a man on stilts wearing
an alien mask and a woman in colourful kangas dancing to
the music.
The seaside gardens are suddenly full of people moving to the rhythm
and enjoying the acts.
Minutes later, the Amani drummers begin to
play. The well-known drumming troupe was formed 12 years ago by
a group of Burundi refugees living in a North-western Tanzanian
camp.
They tell stories through their music and chant loudly. Their performance
is full of energy and by the end, their bodies are drenched in
sweat from the hot sun.
The drummers march out of the gardens playing their massive instruments
on their heads to a huge applause.
Zanzibar’s Sauti Za Busara music festival took over the island’s
ancient Stone Town from February 9 to 13 this year.
The festivities kicked off with the carnival and drummers who were
followed by four nights of top-notch eclectic performances ranging
from traditional taraab to hip hop and reggae, acoustic folk and
Afro fusion.
More than 40 groups took part in the events. There were artists
from all over East Africa including Kenya’s Olith Ratego
and Makadem, and Uganda’s Jose Chameleon. Performers also
came from Senegal, Zimbabwe, and Europe.
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| ...a very intimate vibe (Masoud Khamis) |
Started by Yusuf Mahmoud and his Zanzibar-based
non-profit Busara Promotions,
Sauti za Busara has grown every year since its inception
in 2004.
Originally only a three-day event, this year the festivities lasted
almost a week and staff at Busara has doubled from two to four
people over the last year.
Of course, the Zanzibar festival is smaller than some of the other
big name music events across the continent. It only had one stage,
and four days of live music.
But the size of the festival is one of its best features, creating
a very intimate vibe on the beautiful island.
Musicians and organisers are easy to access as a spectator. Bumping
into performers on the narrow streets of Stone Town or in one of
its popular cafés is common.
And combined with the high quality line-up of performers and professionally
planned events, everyone at the 2007 festival seemed to be having
an amazing time.
The organiser’s made sure all the events were accessible
to both tourists and locals with fair admission rates and free
entry before sunset everyday.
But more than just a music festival, Sauti
Za Busara 2007 was also a showcase of Swahili culture.
The main stage was located inside Zanzibar’s 16th century fort,
a good-sized venue that had a loud sound system and great atmosphere.
There were dhow races one afternoon from Serena beach, craft sales,
fashion shows and music breaks for Muslim prayer time everyday.
The festival also put a lot emphasis on local talent. About half
of the acts were either from mainland Tanzania or Zanzibar itself.
This year’s festival also honoured the
island’s Queen
of Taraab, Bi Kidude.
An hour-long documentary on the 90-something-year-old living legend
premiered in the Old Fort on the festival’s first night.
The film drew a standing-room only crowd, with 2,500 people gathering
in the incredible outdoor cinema. It was an emotional moment when
Kidude and the new documentary received a standing ovation from
her hometown crowd.
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| Ellika & Solo
(Peter Bennett) |
Didier Awadi (Javed Jafferji) |
Jose Chameleone (Masoud
Khamis) |
Of course there were also some really great
performances.
The duo of Ellika & Solo, her a Swedish fiddler and him a kora
player from Senegal played twice during the festival and became
a fan favourite.
Didier Awadi and PHAT 4 from Senegal got the entire crowd on their
feet with their politically charged hip-hop beats, while Jose Chameleone
put on a high-energy show, bouncing all over the stage in a gold
crown and Bob Marley T-shirt.
There were also some beautiful Zanzibari Taraab performances all
over town.
Not unexpectedly, there were a few problems.
Parts of the festival and the entire final all-night party on Kendwa
beach were run off generators because of the island’s power
problems.
It rained one night so the music ended early and strong winds delayed
and almost cancelled the dhow races.
But these quirks are expected and only added to the character of
the well-organised event.
Over the next few years, Sauti Za Busara will probably grow even
bigger, and it’s definitely worth the trip to check it out.
Sunday Nation. Nairobi
Publication Date:
2 March 2007
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